RØDE VideoMic GO II Helix | Ultra-Compact On-Camera Shotgun Microphone with Both 3.5mm and USB Outputs for Filmmaking, Content Creation, Podcasting and Video Calls (3rd Gen)

Okay, first off, I didn't buy this MIC from Amazon, but from Best Buy.This MIC is a really good MIC in recording high quality, crisp sound, but sometimes when there is no dialogue, and there is an action that doesn't have much sound, like a door opening and closing, there can be quite a loud hiss in the background. This MIC is the best one for people in a budget like me and is very professional too! Here are 2 ways to prevent the hiss problem:1.) Via CAMERA SETTINGS: Now I know that the GO mic doesn't have a -20db, but you can still lower the hiss through the camera audio recording settings! (My camera is a Canon, so setting titles may vary for different cameras, but I'm pretty sure Nikon has many of those same titles/names.)Step 1: Go to your camera's settings (via camera), and go to the tab that has the audio recordings.Step 2: Click on "Sound Recording" and put on "Manual" instead of "Auto".Step 3: Go down how much you need to, to reach "Rec. Level". Click on that.Step 4: Put the level around 5 or 6; go to the far end (left) of the level and click 5 or 6 times for it to go to the right. (contact me if you need more detail).This will lower the hiss sound, so the audio will be a clearer when you have dialogue or recording voiceover.2.) Via EDITING SOFTWARE: (I use Final Cut Pro X and iMovie, so I'm sure any other editing software would have the audio effect if these two have it.)Step 1: Open your editing software.Step 2: Go to the "Effects" tab.Step 3: Click on the subcategory (if you have one): "Audio Effects"Step 4: Scroll down (if you have to) and find the tab "Levels"Step 5: Then, scroll down (if you have to again) and find the "Gain" effect.Step 5: Add that effect to your clip/audio and adjust the setting controls to "-20db"Now you have better sounding audio without having to buy the Rode MIC with the Gain controls on the MIC itself.***I have attached pictures (for the Editing Software portion) to help along with the steps. If you still need help, don't hesitate to contact me!***Hope this helps you decide what MIC to buy, and this one seems to be perfect if you are a freelance filmmaker, YouTube creator, or anyone with a tight budget :)

I bought this as an 'overkill' solution for a good quality microphone while on work meetings. I'm also using it to record training content for my company. If you listen to the processed audio through the rode connect, it just barely picks up ambient sounds like keyboard typing when you dial it in. I've found that the built-in background noise cancellation for apps like zoom and microsoft teams completely kill this, so the double-processing works very well. This mic isn't technically intended to be used indoors where acoustics without sound dampening will get picked up, but I'm very pleased with the results anyways. the helix mount does a very good job of absorbing vibrations and preventing transfer to the mic input.The rode connect software wasn't super intuitive at first, but after watching a youtube video or two with someone demonstrating how to leverage the virtual channels, it works great.

This little mic picks up a lot more than I thought it would. A great choice if you're looking for a very lightweight and compact on camera mic option for filming solo. Good sound quality and easy to connect to everything from a mirrorless/dslr style camera to a phone.

I shoot talking head, instructional and run ’n gun video in an urban center filled with radio station towers and high-rises topped with cellphone microwave transmitters. I own several good on-camera mics but am always looking for improvement, especially in terms of RFI resistance. Hence, the VideoMic Go II landed on my doorstep.This is a tiny mic compared to pro shotgun mics. It appears optimized for close indoor and v-blogging use, rather than news crew or movie style set use. Included accessories are spartan: mic, shock mount, foam windscreen and a TRS to TRS cable for cameras or audio recorders and a TRS/TRRS cable for phones. No deadcat, storage bag or USB-C cable. This aluminum clad mic is extremely light and well crafted. The shock mount has a metal shoe. Bravo! On the negative side, cables are thin and cheap and poorly shielded (see remarks below about RFI). And, yeah, a deadcat is sorely needed in Hawaii tradewinds. The foam is almost useless. I made due with a deadcat from my Deity D4.The VideoMic Go II sounds great for talking heads—natural and uncolored—but needs to be .5 meter or nearer or it sounds thin (bass drops off a cliff). It picks up my acoustic guitars amazingly well, sounding full but with nice crispy highs. I also used it for a voiceover using the USB-C output. It doesn’t require any special drivers on the Mac and I could record straight into TwistedWave, Logic Pro and Final Cut pro. Gain is controllable from the System panel. If you choose to use the Rode Central app, you can set low cut (75Hz or 150Hz) and treble boost. I prefer buttons on the mic for these settings. Unfortunately, settings are not retained when you mount the mic on a camera via TRS. The Connect app seems pointless: basically a simple recording app with no editing features and easily beat by GarageBand or TwistedWave.Okay, now the big gotcha. RFI—radio frequency inference—is a constant aggravation in urban centers. I live a block from a radio tower for a class rock station. Almost any analog device sound device—mics, electric guitars, audio recorders, home stereos, etc.—can act like a radio receiver. Unfortunately the VideoMic Go II is not RFI resistant. Using the Rode, that radio station signal is recorded loud and clear on the audio track of my Canon R6 MK II (built-in mics are somehow immune). Incidentally, there were no RFI problems while using the mic with USB-C. Wish cameras allowed USB audio.I’ve dealt with RFI enough I’ve developed a few workarounds. One is to use a wireless transmitter. No luck with Rode Go wireless. Same classic rock station in my tracks. Next, I tried different cables. Cables behave like radio antennas and need to be as short as possible and well shielded. The included Rode TRS to TRS was the worse of the bunch. My other straight cables were almost as bad as the Rode. Finally I tried a blue coiled cable from my Sennheiser MKE 400 and, voila, it worked: RFI free at last. It’s a locking cable but the locking jack seats fine on the VideoMic Go II. It’s called the Sennheiser Pro Audio Sennheiser CL 35 Locking 3.5mm TRS to TRS Coiled Cable if you need one.