Hotend Original for Printer 3D - 12V 30W- Compatible with Ender3, mk10, MK7, MK8, CR-10,creality, Anycubic,E3D, Prusa...

The only issue I really have is SHORT conductors. They aren't even long enough to reach the top of my printer (Anet A6). I prefer to run my hot end conductors directly to the control card without splices. Unfortunately, I couldn't do that in this case. Not sure if it matters but I did re-compile Marlin for the 3950 thermistor, and of course re-ran PID Autotune.It heats up fast and does a great job of maintaining temperature. Seems a lot smoother than the old block-style heater. It also LOOKS great. It's a nice size and shape that fit well in the hot end and looks a lot cleaner than the old heater. It also seems to be safer- everything is enclosed and there aren't set screws holding the heater and thermistor into an aluminum block.Some people have given it 1-star reviews because it fails fairly quickly. I'll obviously update this if it fails or I have any other issues. So far it has been great!

heats quickly and holds a consistent temp.

Updating because it has failed. I really loved it while it lasted.After 61 hours of printing at an average of 205C this unit has broken.I reached out to the company (it's only 3 months old), with no luck. I will leave my original post below, but I would not recommend it.This head rocks! Heats quick and is wicked easy to replace the old head.It's way expensive than standard heat block + cartridge + thermistor but the convenience is worth it.The only thing I would change is to add a connector so we can quick disconnect to change out nozzle or to clean.I would recommend this (so far) to anyone!!

This hotend is something I have been working on for a while. I love it. I use the E3d throat and nozzles. The picture demonstrates an MK8 type nozzle. Which makes for my nozzles to sit farther away then designers expected. This does work to my advantage because I can have more room on top for the heat-break.This would be SO easy to create a "Volcano" version. Just increase the height and create nozzles. Sell them cheap.There are some bad reviews (in German). From what I can tell one problem is a thermister. Marlin requires that you flash the firmware when you change your thermister type. According to their designers, use type 1. ie. TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 in the Configuration.hI would like to point out that just because their thermistor is a type 1 NTC 100K does not mean they don't need a temperature profile in Marlin../Marlin/src/core/src/module/thermistor/thermistor_NEW.hYou would need a table of resistivity to the temperature reading at the inside of the throat. I've done this with my hotend and the reading was so far off I made my own profile.

I lowered my expectations after reading some reviews about premature failure, but seriously? As mentioned by some other reviews, the wires are too short for most 3d printers, you would have to splice them into existing ones or somehow extend them. They included uncrimped connector ends, but one connector was slightly crushed and the other was totally destroyed. They didn't include any crimping tool for these connectors either, so I don't know how I'd attach them anyways (maybe with pliers?). I was about to let all that slide.. but it's UNSAFE to use! Whatever insulator material held the hotend wires in place totally crumbled during first installation, as I screwed it onto the extruder by hand hardly even touching it. Something that by design carries high current and generates high temperatures should be more robust than this, it's a fire hazard. It's a shame because it seems like a good concept, but they just fail to deliver spectacularly...

I purchased this heater block mid December and didn’t get around to using it till February. At first I had no complaints it seemed solid. I couldn’t find any issues with it and it worked great. I print with pla for the most part so I never pushed this block past 205c so I can’t say how it would hold up with other materials that require higher temps. What I can say is with my experience I’d have to say it wouldn’t last very long at all! That is based on the fact that it didn’t last more than 2 months for me who prints with PLA and at max maybe a few prints a week. In the end it wouldn’t heat up and became useless.

I was really excited when i heard about this product. The first one i received was DOA (bad thermistor. which can't be bought separately). After a very effortless RMA with amazon i received the replacement. It worked for a few days(~2wks max!) then, as reported by others, the problems started. It all started with printer halting from prints due to heater faults (duet2 wifi). those halts started becoming more frequent, which would result in filament jams and lots of frustration. Went back to the old trusted heater blocks, and have been printing well since.Save your money and stick to the true and tried heater blocks, for now. Maybe maxiwatt will improve their products in the future and i'll try it again then.

My first thought in this review is that. Other than basic spec's. They don't tell you how to set up this hot end. I set mine up as a type #1 thermistor. It reads correctly. Bed & hotend read 1"c from each other.I've got 2 successful prints thus far and one failed due to adhesion problems.I like that this replaces the old heatblock. And is much less bulky.

good product

Alles super gerne wieder

Buenos acabados, buena calidad, temperatura constante y uniforme, calienta más rápido, 10 vatios menos de consumo que mi anterior hotend, mejor rendimiento y ocupa menos, probado en Witbox 2.

Je cherchais une tête d'impression moins encombrante pour ma delta et je suis tombé sur ce cylindre chauffant. Il fonctionne très bien, je monte à 200°C en 1 minute trente alors qu'il faut 2 minutes trente avec une tête E3D V6.

Lo he usado poco pero la verdad me ha gustado mucho y las primeras capas son fantásticas